Twons
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The capital of Battambang province and Cambodia’s second largest city, Battambang, a former military stronghold, is the jumping off point for tours to Pailin, Koh Kong and circuits of the Tonle Sap or great lake. With a decidedly Thai feel to the town — a feeling that increases noticeably the closer you get to the border — the sprawling riverside town has a strong cowboy feel. As you arrive from Siem Reap there is the feeling that you should be pulling up outside a saloon and tying your bike up to the parking pole outside.
The roads around Battambang are all graded and flat. Inside the town roads are paved.
The road to Sisophon is a quick, flat, gravel track.
The road to Pailin is rough but decent. From Pailin to anywhere in Koh Kong is strictly for experts only. With guides.
From Battambang to Kompong Chnang, the dirt road is mostly flat by travelled by large, dust-kicking lorries. From there on to Phnom Penh is blacktop in decent condition.